villa tramontalba
a base for exploreres

They call it the Manhattan of the Middle Ages, San Gimignano. This town got that nickname because it used to be filled with residential towers. Back in the day, there were  seventy-two (!) of these towers. Families were in a race to build the tallest tower because, you know, the higher, the better.

By 1580, only twenty-five towers were left standing. Nobody can agree on how many are left today. Some international Tourist websites would say thirteen, while the Italian Wikipedia says sixteen. Driving into the town’s center, you might lose count as the road twists and turns.

The oldest tower is Torre Rognosa, standing tall at fifty-one meters. In 1255, a law was implemented, saying that nobody could build a tower taller than this one. However, the owners of Torre Grossa at Piazza del Duomo didn’t care about that law and they build Torre Grossa three meters taller than the city’s oldest tower.

You can climb up the fifty-four meters high Torre Grossa, also known as Torre del Podestà.  After the climb, you will be rewarded with an amazing view. 

Once you get town from the tower, grab some well-deserved Gelato from Sergio Dondoli and relax at Piazza della Cisterna. Sergio was the first to mix white wine into his gelato successfully. Try his prosecco or Vernaccia flavors (made from local white wine), along with Crema di Santa Fina and honey gelato. 

You can also enjoy your gelato while sitting on the cistern steps, named after the water well in the square. From here you can spot the tower on the northern side, called Torre del Diavolo, or Devil’s Tower.

Do you wonder what the inside of a residential tower looks like? One of San Gimignano’s towers still has its original furniture. Visit Torre Campatelli for a unique blast from the past experience. 

Marvel at Gozzoli’s Frescoes in Sant’Agostino. In 1463, Benozzo Gozzoli painted frescoes in Sant’Agostino showing stories about St. Augustine and St. Monica. One of the best frescoes shows Augustine leaving for Milan, together with writers and family. Gozzoli even painted himself, wearing red, into the fresco. Can you find him? 

Enjoy San Gimignano’s Best Restaurants
At Ristorante Chiribiri (Piazza della Madonna 1), there’s a great variety of amazing food on the menu, e.g. ribollita (a hearty vegetable soup) and pici (a type of thick spaghetti) with wild boar. Everything’s delicious, thanks to fresh ingredients and old, traditional recipes.

Cum Quibus (Via San Martino 17) is one of San Gimignano’s best-kept secrets, with food that’s as good as the city’s towers. If you want a really special night out, don’t forget to reserve a table!

In one of San Gimignano’s oldest palaces’ former wine cellars, is Ristorante Perucà (Via Capassi 16), where Lidia and Fabio serve up amazing dishes. Definitely try the risotto Perucà.

Other must-tries include: Osteria del Carcere (Via del Castello 13), Osteria delle Catene (Via Mainardi 18), Locanda di Sant’Agostino (Piazza Sant’Agostino 15), I Quattro Gatti (Via di Quercecchio 13), and Trattoria Rigoletto (Via Roma 23).

Get a Taste of Vernaccia di San Gimignano
“He kisses, licks, bites, seduces, and paralyzes.” That’s what the famous Michelangelo said about Vernaccia. Vernaccia is a white wine produced around San Gimignano. Michelangelo couldn’t be happier with a glass of this straw-yellow wine. 

Visit Casa alle Vacche, in the hills north of San Gimignano, for an amazing spot to try a glass of Vernaccia. Another great place for a tasting is the Vagnoni family estate. Both places can tell you all about Vernaccia. Will you agree with Michelangelo? 

Also, check out the Strada del Vino Vernaccia di San Gimignano, which hosts a lot of wineries, agriturismos, restaurants, and wine bars.

Have fun!